Trip Day 16 - optional tour Herodion and Ein Karen

Official (adjusted) itinerary:

This morning begins with a discussion with a Palestinian journalist who will share her perspective on living in Israel. 

Jerusalem • Optional Herodion & Ein Karem tour

Today is at leisure in Jerusalem, or you may choose to join an optional tour that begins in Herodion, a hilltop fortified palace built by Herod the Great in the desert south of Bethlehem that is also thought to be Herod’s mausoleum. The tour continues to Mar Elias Monastery, a Greek Orthodox monastery originally built in the sixth century AD,

then rebuilt in the twelfth century. There are usually views of both Jerusalem and Bethlehem from the hilltop. We’ll have lunch in the monastery’s restaurant before returning to Jerusalem, with a stop on the way to visit Ein Karem.

Nestled in the hills to the southwest of Jerusalem, Ein Karem is notable as the birthplace of St. John the Baptist. Our visit takes us to two churches connected to the life of the biblical figure: the Church of St. John the Baptist and the Church of the Visitation. Although both structures are relatively new, both are constructed over the remains of much older buildings that marked two important sites for early Christians—the site of St. John’s birth and the site of the visit from St. Mary to St. John’s mother, St. Elizabeth.

Dinner is on your own this evening.

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Saturday September 16

It is Shabbat. We notice that when we take the elevator down to go to breakfast. The "wrong" elevator. The Shabbat elevator. Observing Jews are not supposed to do any work during those 24 hours (Friday sundown to Saturday sundown). Pressing elevator buttons is work. That's why during this time one of the two elevators works automatically and stops on every floor. Comes and goes. Drives us nuts. Oh well. 

It also means that the itinerary is going to be changed. 

First we meet a Palestinian tour guide (name: Firas) in the upstairs hotel lounge to tell us about the Palestinian situation from his perspective. And we can ask any question. It is eye-opening. 

Then we leave the hotel to get on the bus at the next corner. The street in front of the hotel is for pedestrians only. 

All but one in our group are going on the optional tour. 

This church is where Elizabeth lived. The Angel Gabriel visited her and told her that she would get pregnant and that the baby should be named John (the Baptist).

The same prayer in many languages. 

Yael is ruthless when she wants to explain something to us. She moves the candlestick and case somewhat to the right so we can see pregnant Mary holding baby John for his circumcission on the eighth day while mute Zacharias is writing the name on a tablet. The biblestories are coming alive. Yael always tying real traditions to it. 

From here we walk to another church. 

Views looking back. 

This is where Mary visited Elizabeth. Yael again reads from the New Testament. The baby leaped for joy in Elizabeth's womb because of the baby in Mary's womb. 

Yael explained why there are two places ... where Elizabeth lived ... and where Mary visited her. People used to have a hut in the cooler mountains where they went with their animals when it was hot. It all makes sense. 

A quick look "upstairs" into the main church. It is "Orthodox Sunday" so there is a service going on and of course we don't want to intrude. 

When we walk down and to the bus we pass an ice cream place. Yael gives us options. She offers to buy us all an ice cream if we are ok to visit the Herodion first and have lunch after. Everybody agrees. 

Driving today is not too bad. The roads are pretty much deserted because it's Shabbat. We have to drive through Palestinian territory. It's eery to say the least. 

The Herodium is on the flat mountain in the very back. 

First thing we do after we arrive is watch a movie. King Herod the Great built himself about 8 palaces. This was not so much his Palace but it became his mausoleum. He had written very detailed instructions how and where he wanted to be buried. He was a man of details. 

Here too we got a lot of information. I can't possibly write it all down. A model always helps. 

There was a lot of excitement when King Herold's tumb was actually found. Excavations are ongoing. They have also found beautiful frescos which are also still being worked on. I could see something through some glass. 

 

This mouseleum is only a smaller model. 

This is the foundation of the real one. 

Amazing! And now off to lunch. 

Looking back at Herodion. 

Driving back through Palestine territory. Nerving. 

Lunch at an old monastery Mar Elias. But it was almost 3 pm already. 

We did a lot of guessing about this. It's pickled little eggplant. 

And then it was off to a sound and light show at King David's Tower. We could walk there from our hotel. The walk alone was very nice. Lots to see. Shabbat was over and the town was getting alive. 

It started at 8 pm but once it had started photographing was not allowed. 

It was almost a bit chilly but it was a very nice evening. We walked back and crashed. It had been a "full" day.