Trip Day 17 - exploring Jerusalem

Official (adjusted) Itinerary:

Western Wall tunnels • Old Jerusalem walking tour • Mount Zion

After breakfast at our hotel, we enter the maze of chambers and cisterns underneath the Western Wall, part of the ancient city wall that is of great spiritual significance in the Jewish and Islamic traditions, revered by Jews as the last standing remnant of ancient Jerusalem’s Second Temple.

This site is also known as the Wailing Wall for Jews’ mourning of the destruction of the temple by the Romans in AD 70. Although the wall is nearly 1,600 feet in length, only about 230 feet are visible above ground. The remainder was hidden when King Herod raised the landscape surrounding the Temple Mount in the year 19 BC. We’ll see portions of the wall that have been perfectly preserved, and head underground to explore the parts that were sealed off until excavations began in 1967, and had been hidden for almost 2,000 years.

Then we spend the day getting to know Jerusalem, as we explore its Old City on foot. Though it occupies an area of less than one square mile, this ancient enclave’s history and spiritual significance to Christians, Jews, and Muslims is immense. We begin our comprehensive walking tour in the area around the Western Wall, the Jewish Quarter, which is adjacent to the site of Solomon’s First Temple and the Second Temple. From here, we have an admirable view of the Islamic Dome of the Rock, perched on the Temple Mount, and a different perspective on the Western Wall. Our walk then takes us to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, built around what is believed to be the site of Christ’s burial and resurrection, and along the Via Dolorosa—the ancient “Way of the Sorrows,” where it is traditionally held that Christ walked to his crucifixion.

After strolling the winding streets of Jerusalem’s Arab and Christian quarters, we’ll enjoy lunch at a restaurant in the Old City. Then we visit Mount Zion, the traditional Christian site of the Last Supper. From there, we’ll return to our hotel and enjoy dinner on our own this evening.

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Sunday September 17

I had prepared each daily blog with the Official Itinarary before we left on this trip but because of Shabbat and other holy days I am all screwed up now. Today we do what was on the calendar yesterday. Don't know how I am going to fix it all (because I am already several days behind). Oh well. Here it goes...

Yes, we explored Jerusalem and there was so much to see. Though the Old City occupies an area of less than one square mile, this ancient enclave’s history and spiritual significance to Christians, Jews, and Muslims is immense. 

Of course in 2000 years since Jesus the city has changed and places are not exactly like they used to be. This is where Jesus might have had his last supper with his disciples. We are on Mt. Zion.

The olive tree with the grape wine is supposed to remind us. 

Because it is important that Jesus is from the line of King David, right there is supposedly King David's tomb, now a place of worship. Ladies go one way, gentlemen the other. 

Then each side has half of the sarcophagus (except it is hard to believe that that man was that tall. 

We are walking some streets and ...

... in no time (taken from the official itinarary) ... begin our comprehensive walking tour in the area around the Western Wall, the Jewish Quarter, which is adjacent to the site of Solomon’s First Temple and the Second Temple. From here, we have an admirable view of the Islamic Dome of the Rock, perched on the Temple Mount, and a different perspective on the Western Wall. 

These photos are taken from behind a fence. You have to stand in a long line to get in. 

Official itinarary:

we enter the maze of chambers and cisterns underneath the Western Wall, part of the ancient city wall that is of great spiritual significance in the Jewish and Islamic traditions, revered by Jews as the last standing remnant of ancient Jerusalem’s Second Temple.

This site is also known as the Wailing Wall for Jews’ mourning of the destruction of the temple by the Romans in AD 70. Although the wall is nearly 1,600 feet in length, only about 230 feet are visible above ground. The remainder was hidden when King Herod raised the landscape surrounding the Temple Mount in the year 19 BC. We’ll see portions of the wall that have been perfectly preserved, and head underground to explore the parts that were sealed off until excavations began in 1967, and had been hidden for almost 2,000 years.

This model is very helpful and Yael tries to explain as simply as she can. She has to hurry though. The next group is pushing. 

We generally know only of the "outside wailing wall" but there are many underground places too. Here the women pray upstairs ...

... while the men actually can go close to the wall (photo taken through the upstairs curtain)

The reason people pray at the wall and leave written prayers too is that it is the closest they can get to the remnants of the second temple. Yael explains that actually there are places underground closer then the famous upper section. 

Those underground tunnels are really a rabbit warren. And there are a good number of cisterns. This land is very dry and water is precious. The architects and builders 2000 and more years ago were incredible. This one for whatever reason has one goldfish in it. Yael had seen it on previous visits. 

And then we came out of the tunnels ... onto the Via Dolorosa (the ancient “Way of Sorrows").

This is the street of Jesus' humiliation and suffering, the walk to the crucifiction. 

There are 14 Stations of the Cross. 

First Station: Jesus is Condemned to Death

I can't really remember this place. At least I don't seem to have a photo. 

Second Station: Jesus takes up the Cross

Here are two chapels. The Chapel of the Flagellation

And the Chapel of Condemnation. 

(I try and have an eye out for new Chrismon symbols. This might be one)

Third Station: Jesus falls for the first time

Fourth Station: Jesus meets his mother

It was not easy to multi-task. Listening to the guide (and understanding it), taking mental notes and photos, avoiding the vendors and dodging the other groups. 

I am a bit muddled with my report from now on. We also did not see all the stations. To be honest, this we probably should have done totally by ourselves. 

Fifth Station: Simon of Cyrene helps Jesus to carry the cross. There is a stone in the wall with an indentation where Jesus supposedly laid his hand on during the walk to Golgotha. 

Sixth Station: Veronica wipes the face of Jesus

Seventh Station: Jesus falls for the second time

Eighth Station: Jesus consoles the crying women of Jerusalem

It was almost 1 pm. We stopped to use the toilets in a jewelry store. The owner is friends with Yael. And then we made our way towards lunch. 

Yael pointed out that this is one of the very few Lutheran churches in Israel. Helen might be interested to know that. 

Yes, the German eagle over the entry door (left).

Lunch was in a large room one story up and of course buffet. I am always terrible at buffets because I like to taste things. There was no shortage of things James and I liked. 

Afterwards we were told to go up on the (flat) roof because of the view. And yes, it was very nice. 

Our walk then takes us to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, built around what is believed to be the site of Christ’s burial and resurrection (from the official itinarary). 

We have a problem with that this really could be the place of crucifixion and burial but Yael explains. At Jesus' time this was outside the city walls. It had to be outside but close enough because the powers in charge wanted everybody to see what happened to "criminals". She also had arguments about the burial because there used to be a quarry close by which then was used as graves. Yael had done her "homework". 

Eleventh Station: Jesus is nailed to the Cross

Twelfth Station: Crucifixion and Death

A monk made me upset. He blew out and collected all candles out of one stand (donated by people for special prayers), even if they were brand new and just lit. Oh well. 

Thirteenth Station: Jesus is taken down from the Cross

Jesus' body was laid on this stone to be anointed with a mixture of myrrh and oils. 

People were kneeling down and kissing it so I didn't want to take a closer photo. I always feel like I am intruding. 

There was a nice mosaic behind it though. 

 

Fourteenth Station: Jesus laid in the Tomb

Yael likes to gives us choices. Instead of standing in line for a long time for which might not be the right tomb she had something better to show us. 

I had not mentioned that several denominations were responsible for the different sections (churches/chapels) which means they take care of that and nothing else. Behind the tomb was something nobody felt responsible for but was very exciting. And it supports the theory. 

There was a room which had partly built walls and partly rocks (like a cave) with tombs chiseled out. We went inside and there are some empty tombs and two still sealed. That was exciting. James and I thought it was one of the highlights. All the other places were so over the top and it was difficult to feel Holy presence. 

And then back to the hotel. It had been a full day. Dinner was not included today. That suits us. Lunch had been a lot so we are very happy with the nibbles at happy hour in the lobby and one (or two) glasses of wine. We have the opportunity to chat with others. 

And we have a lot to digest from what we had seen and heard today.