Trip Belgium and Holland in Springtime Day 5 Part 1

Friday April 10

The ship moved and this morning we woke up in Ghent, still in Belgium. I didn't really know anything about this town and didn't except much. Surprise, surprise.

We had docked a bit outside of the old city center so left by bus at 9am. The busses were not allowed into the center but it was not very far to walk. Follow the local guide with the blue flag.

Soon walking over the first bridge reminded us a bit of Venice. Canals everywhere. 

Our (blue group) guide was Arn and he was excellent. His English was excellent and clear but his knowledge about his city, fun facts and captivating history made it a very nice experience. Sorry to say that I can't repeat those interesting stories about certain houses and places. 

Just looking at everything would have been eye-candy.

Of course every midieval town has to have a castle. The story here:

In northwest Belgium’s town of Ghent, one of the oldest and most secure medieval castles is still standing. Constructed nearly 850 years ago, Gravensteen castle — or the “Castle of the Counts” — is an imposing structure, built entirely from stone and complete with a whopping 24 towers, a massive moat, and a defense system that’s still largely intact today. With such protection tactics in place, the Castle of the Counts enjoyed a lengthy history free from siege for nearly eight centuries. In fact, the very first occupation of Gravensteen didn’t occur until 1949, and it wasn’t military forces that laid the siege — it was college students, and it was all thanks to a 1-franc increase on beer.

On the morning of Nov. 16, 1949, 138 students from the University of Ghent took to the castle walls to protest their outrage over a new Belgian beer tax that brought the cost of beer from 3 francs to 4. They started by lowering the portcullis, capturing the only guard on duty and locking him in a closet before barricading the door with a cart filled with rotting fruit. The students then raised banners above the castle walls, demanding that the price of beer in the city be lowered back to three francs.

While the first few hours of the invasion were relatively uneventful, the students got the action they were looking for when two police officers biked by. As the officers passed the castle, the students took to the cart they brought along with them and pelted the cops with rancid fruit in protest. The officers called in backup, and shortly after, a brigade of police officers and firemen arrived at the scene and were met with more fruit-throwing.

Eventually — and relatively easily — firefighters were able to get a ladder up and over the castle walls to detain the students. However, following such an outpouring of public support from the surrounding Ghent community, not one of the 138 students ended up facing prosecution for the hours-long occupation. Despite their valiant efforts, the students were unsuccessful in reinstating the 3-franc beer.

Today, the Battle of Gravensteen Castle is fondly remembered as the greatest student prank in history by the Ghent community. Every Nov. 16, the “battle” is commemorated by University of Ghent students who pour into the streets surrounding the castle to dance, sing “The Battle of Gravensteen” (a song written about the protest) and, of course, drink beer.

(article written by Olivia White on the internet)

The house in the corner (next two photos) was the fisher's guildhall as one can see on the ornate facade.

And there is a story here about the Marriott Hotel. Arn thinks that they might not have investigated the property history much when they bought it. 

These two oval swan plaques clearly say it. While two swans looking at each other when wedding decor mean LOVE, this way it is an indication that pit used to be a brothel. I think the Renaissance house dates back to 1518.

This building is Ghent's modern Market Hall or Stadshal is either loved or hated. Arn, our local guide, took a "hands-up" survey who liked it or not. I didn't think it was very pretty in the beginning but when he with excitement explained what it replaced and what it is used for etc I changed my mind. 

Very close is Saint Bavo's Cathedral (previously named St. John's Church).

It is free entry to visit the church. But like in the Cathedral in Antwerp you need a ticket to see a painted masterpiece. We were not sure that we were interested but Arn talked with so much enthusiasm about this altarpiece by the van Eyck brothers that we decided to do that after all.

Our "free time" started here at the church and we were quite lucky that it didn't take too long to get our tickets (12.50 Euros each). We had to take an elevator and walk a corridor and then walked into the chapel hallway behind the main altar. The first thing we saw was this painting by Rubens. No really special place for it. But, sorry to all art experts, as in the Antwerp cathedral, his paintings don't really speak to me.

There is the chapel we were looking for. History: the painting was commissioned by Joos Vyd and his wife for the Vyd Chapel in this cathedral. It was inaugurated in 1432. You can find more info here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ghent_Altarpiece

My photos don't do it any justice. They will help James and me with our memories but we were overwhelmed seeing it. The colors are brilliant (maybe closing the altar piece probably preserved the colors). But the expressions of each individual person and the depth in each motif is incredible. I am not an art connoisseur but really could have sat there for a while looking at it.

In the next chapel was a large screen and a video was playing showing the details of this large masterpiece. I took a video of the video but probably need to find it on the internet to include it in this blog. Copyright?

Having paid entry to this we found ourselves also allowed into the altar area. James and I agreed that this was not the usual gaudy overwhelming look but brilliant and tasteful to the Glory of God. 

In the choir area were painted panels which first looked like reliefs. Above it where organ pipes.

Back outside it was much colder than the days before. We had about 35 minutes until we were supposed to meet our trip leader at the fountain to walk back to the bus. But we knew that around the corner was a chocolate shop which sold hot chocolate and that is where we were heading. 

Belgium is famous for its chocolates and you hear and see it everywhere. EVERYWHERE!

The offered a take-out cup for 5 Euros but we should have taken the offer for another 3.50 Euros they would have added some rum. May be that would have warmed us up better.

Another look at the church and then it was time to walk to the bus.

We were back in time for lunch. No assigned seats means we already have it opportunity to chat with several of our fellow travelers. We enjoy it a lot.

So many photos today (and I included only half of them). For the afternoon I have to do a Part 2 blog. Stay tuned!