Day 5 - Osijek, Aljmaš and Vukovar in Croatia

6-2 Sunday

from the OAT itinerary:

Day 5:

After passing through customs this morning and docking in Batina, you'll set out to explore Osijek, the administrative and economic center of eastern Croatia.

Situated on the Drava River, about 15 miles from the mouth of the Danube, this area was populated even in prehistoric times, and the first urban settlement was erected by the Romans. But its advantageous geographical location made it prey to assault throughout the centuries. It was destroyed by the Huns, rebuilt in the Middle Ages, destroyed by the Turks, and rebuilt again in the 18th century. As a result, Osijek boasts an eclectic architectural heritage, which you'll see on your included city tour.

Among the more notable sites are the Tvrdja, a unique urban and military complex that lies in the center of the city and was built between 1712 and 1721 by the new Austrian authorities; the neo-Gothic Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, with a 290-foot spire; and the striking, 690-foot modern pedestrian bridge that rises over the Drava. Reliving its own cruel history in our era, Osijek was heavily damaged during the Croatian-Serbian war. Now peaceful, the city is experiencing a rebirth of civic pride and cultural and economic achievement.

Following your walking tour, partake in two exclusive Discovery Series events. First, visit with students at a local school (when in session) supported, in part, by Grand Circle Foundation. Then, enhance your appreciation for everyday Croatian life as you join a local family for a Home-Hosted Lunch.

Later this afternoon, transfer by motorcoach to Vukovar, where you'll reboard the ship. This evening, after dinner onboard, enjoy a musical performance.

* * * * *

We had been warned last night! We had left Budapest and were on our way to our next stop which was in Croatia. Since this was outside the “Schengen agreement” we would have “face-recognition” when we arrived in Mohacs. We were called by floor to come in our PJs to the front desk where the “officials” were waiting. This started around 5:30 am. Not many were dressed and everybody thought it was funny.

Breakfast started at 7 am as usual. Since it was Sunday we were offered a glass of champagne or mimosa and some smoked salmon. Very nice. I have to stop eating so much breakfast. All those goodies and nice company. When James wanted to go into the gift shop at the opera house before leaving because he had seen a cap he was considering buying I treated myself to a cup for making my onboard tea. As usual I had forgotten to pack mine. A few travel times I managed to bring one from home but most of the time I forget and ended up buying another one. It’s going to be a collection soon. But you just can’t make a nice cup of tea in those little coffee cups. Got to have my early morning cuppa. It worked out nicely this morning.

The itinerary says that the ship docks at Batina for something. Not sure whether that is where we get off board. Three buses for the golden, blue and red groups are waiting at 9 am. The photo is labeled “Draž.

We are driving to the city of Osijek. Pottystop before we are almost there. 

The first visit was to the farmer’s market. We were divided in several smaller groups and given a job = an envelope with 10 kuna and a typed word. We were supposed to shop for the item (fruit or vegetable) and find something out about the seller. Our word was "jagoda".

I was sure that the things would be labeled on the tables but that was not so. Some had only the price, some had the name of the village or the farm it comes from. I asked the first salesperson I encountered but he didn’t speak English. He did speak German though and took me to the next stand. Jagoda is Erdbeere = Strawberries. Our leader made the purchase.

We tried to talk with the two sellers but didn’t have much luck. After that we split up. James and I wandered around. Everything looked so fresh and healthy and yummy.

At the appointed time we were back at the meeting place and were led into the city center. The local guide pointed interesting buildings out here and there. Like in Budapest there were some very incredible and different ones. There were also bullet holes in many buildings. Signs of what they call the homeland war. 

A sign to remember where once a synagog stood.

The city square was very nice. Streetcars were going by, a few cafes were open. Almost all shops were closed. In the cathedral was a service in progress. James and I sat down for a moment but since it was catholic and in the local language we left after a while.

At the appointed time our guides collected everybody and we walked around a few corners to our buses. There was a large parking lot at the river Drava which also flows into the Danube. 

Back on the bus we drove for a while to the home hosted lunch. It was quite interesting to see the gardens and fields with the very healthy rich looking soil. 

The lunch was in the village of Aljmaš. It is in Eastern Croatia close to Serbia and was very damaged in what they call the homeland war. Many of the people had fled. Monika had her busload pre-arranged into 4 groups. We were group 2 and our hostess was going to be Susi. As we later learned that this is necessary because the day before the hosts or hostesses are given any dietary needs. Susi told us that it can be very challenging when you make a plan and then suddenly somebody can’t have tomatoes, or the dumplings in the soup are a problem because they are not gluten-free or no mushrooms or no nuts etc. She said the worst is when that person then isn’t even in attendance. 

Our hostess Susi was very interesting. She was originally from Germany and married to a man from this village. His parents had fled with him when he was 2 to Germany where he had grown up and they had met. Her in-laws decided to move back when they retired. On a visit the young couple (who had two daughters) decided they needed a house there for when they came to visit. Susi said they fell in love with the place and the life and they decided to stay. She is a very busy woman and has built a business baking birthday and wedding cakes, having a B&B, doing the home-hosted lunches for the cruises. It was heartwarming to see how much she liked her life. She talked with us about her girls education in the school there and the life with the neighbors. 

She welcomed us with the traditional Slivovitz drink which she had made herself with the plums from her tree. She also had made elderberry syrup for the refreshing drink and some liquor. The lunch she had cooked was very nice and her baked dessert outstanding. Time went very fast. 

Susi is a very enterprising lady. Besides hosting people like us for lunches, she also has a business for making cakes for birthdays and weddings. She took us into her shop for that. Probably should have bought some of her homemade liquors and elderberry syrup ... if there was only a way to transport it.

House on the left, shop on the right. Oh yes, also a B & B place.

We had barely time to look into her garden and see her chickens when we were picked up again and had to say good-bye. 

We had to drive a while to Vukovar. This is another town which had greatly suffered and so much got destroyed. Still many signs to see. When we reached the town this house was pointed out to us as having been on the front page of the National Geographic Magazin. I took a photo from the bus.

The ship was there and we could have gone on but James and I went for a little walk. All that sitting around. We just need at least a few steps to feel better.

The River Vuko is flowing into the Danube here. We see a stork pair minding a nest on one of the houses.

Then I try to take a better photo of the reminder of the past. The flowers in the destroyed house are there as a monument.

We are going back to the ship but James decided to do more walking. I have to lay flat for a little while and feel better. When James came back from his walk he was all excited. He had found a very nice estate which is now a museum. Unfortunately he was just a few minutes late because they were closing. If we only had known! It was so near and it would have been just our cup of tea.

There even was a little chapel.

At 5 pm is the “market presentation” in the lounge. The different teams are supposed to tell what they bought and what they had found out about the people. It was so funny. I had no idea how funny this would be. Glad we participated and went to it.

A last view from the ship.

The Daily Port Talk (about the next day) at 6:45 pm followed by dinner. Interesting appetizer.

Followed by split pea soup and then I had the fish. Quite nice but the fish was a bit dry. The veggies on the side are always very nice.

French tarte tatin.

We had such an interesting discussion with a couple at the table that we almost forgot the “Onboard Entertainment” Slavonian Folk music. The instruments were very typical for this area and it was nice.

Of course I took some videos. Four to be exact but I think two is enough here.

VIDEO 1!      (0:45)

VIDEO 2!      (0:14)

Writing this (past bedtime) I hear the engines. The itinerary said that the MS River Concerto would leave for Novi Sad at 10:45 pm.

Ups, bed time!!!